Weekend in Sausalito: scenic views and small-town charm near San Francisco

Come with me to Sausalito, a small waterfront city just over the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco and, famously, the place that inspired Otis Redding to croon “sittin’ on the dock of the bay, wastin’ time.”

Sausalito is a spot my extended family has called home since I was young and was the backdrop for many of my earliest childhood memories. Memories like walking down a dock to see my aunt, Carol Sarkis, who has lived her own Otis Redding fantasy of “sittin’ in the morning sun” on a Sausalito houseboat for nearly 50 years.

Carol moved from Brooklyn to San Francisco with her sister in the late 1960s and fell in love with Sausalito the first time she laid eyes on it. “My sister and I dreamed of living on a houseboat,” she remembers.

A few years later, Carol had the chance to make her dream come true. Even now, a half century after moving onto the docks, she still loves it here. “I can’t imagine any place else I’d want to live. I wake up each morning and look out the window to see the pelicans and think about how lucky I am.”

Over the years, Sausalito has changed a bit. “There’s more tourists, but that’s because it’s a nice place to be,” says Carol. But the things that make it a true gem—its small town charm, stellar nature, picturesque houseboats, and bustling downtown—remain untouched and vibrant as ever.

Ready to sit on the dock of the Bay, and maybe also throw in a scenic hike and a memorable meal or two? Here’s where to start.

Your keywords for the weekend are natural and luxe.

The Sausalito Boardwalk is a loose term that includes the Bridgeway Promenade and the area near the ferry terminal. But really, it’s a catch-all for the cute downtown waterfront and an open invitation to wander the sidewalks, grab a bite to eat (more on that below), and pop into Sausalito’s boutiques and shops. My favorite is the independent bookstore Sausalito Books by the Bay, which sits over the water. Along the way, soak up views of San Francisco across the water and the Bay Bridge in the distance. (The Golden Gate Bridge isn’t visible from here, but you can get an incredible view of that bridge from nearby Cavallo Point.) This neighborhood is also your jumping off point for both the ferry to San Francisco and the shuttle to Muir Woods.

With its natural forms and signature colors, Heath has been an icon in California ceramics since 1959, and Sausalito is where it all began. To get here, head a bit off the beaten path to the dirt parking lot outside the combo factory and store. Book a tour in advance (it’s $15 per person) for a peek behind the scenes, or just wander the shop and covet all the pretty tableware and tile. Pro tip: You can find some steep discounts here on seconds, discontinued items, and prototypes.

When I was young, my aunts used to take me hiking on this fantastic and relatively flat trail through a coastal valley out to a beautiful dark-sand beach in a wild cove. At least once a year, I still go, drawn by the wildflowers in spring and the golden hills this time of year. The trailhead is a quick drive from Sausalito, but it feels like a different place entirely, a wild place ruffled by Pacific breezes, and home to the soaring hawks overhead and the foxes you can sometimes see trotting along the ridges above.

For being such a small city, Sausalito has a surprising number of one-of-a-kind museums and centers. The San Francisco Bay Model is a working hydraulic model of the San Francisco Bay and the nearby Delta. It’s been around since 1957 and has a dated and sweet charm. It’s a hit with kids and curious adults who love this mini-version of the Bay, its landmarks, and best of all, the tides that rush in and out of the 1.5-acre structure. Over in the Headlands, animal lovers should book a (free) ticket for a trip into the Marine Mammal Center, the world’s largest marine mammal hospital. And downtown, the Sausalito Ice House Museum is a quick stop that will give you a taste of the town’s history, including its Miwok indigenous roots, WWII shipbuilding days, and the beginnings of Sausalito as an arts hotspot and houseboat mecca.

Muir Woods National Monument is absolutely worth both the hype and the extra effort it takes to get here. (You’ll either drive or take the shuttle up the hill from Sausalito to this ancient redwood forest.) Follow the valley trail along the stream and walk under trees that range in age from 500 to a thousand years old. For a mental reset, close your eyes, feel the cool air and dappled sunshine on your face, and listen to the gentle sound of the breeze in the canopy above. If you want an even quieter walk in the woods (that main trail gets crowded sometimes), veer off onto an uphill trail where there’s fewer people but just as many trees. Whether you drive yourself or take the shuttle, you’ll need to book in advance, since this is a super popular spot with daily visitor limitations.

Sausalito has some real gems, if you know where to look.

Foggy Sausalito mornings call for hot coffee, and Firehouse Coffee & Tea is a local fave serving up pour-overs, espresso drinks, and a ton of tea. This sweet spot sits right next to the town fire station downtown, and is a nice stop whether you’re looking for a quick pick-me-up or a place to settle in with a latte and a book.

About halfway between the houseboat docks and downtown sits the New Town neighborhood, a little cluster of shops, restaurants, and bars on Bridgeway and Caledonia streets. It’s here you’ll find some of Carol’s favorite spots, including Driver’s Market and the Michelin Bib-Gourmand Japanese restaurant Sushi Ran. For a front-row seat, sit at the sushi bar, order from the impressive sake menu, and then sit back and watch the edible magic happen.

Whether you’re aiming for a drinks-and-oysters cocktail hour or a full celebration dinner, Scoma’s of Sausalito is the place to be. This local institution is perched on its own little pier out over the water, which means three walls of water views from a table on the deck or in the airy dining room. My pick: a half dozen Hog Island oysters and a glass of bubbles from Sonoma or Napa for a literal taste of local life.

Tucked into a parking lot near the houseboat docks on the north side of town is the unpromisingly named New Bait Shop Market. Inside this slightly grubby convenience store is Davey Jones Deli, easily my favorite place for sandwiches in town. The sandwiches have sassy names, hyper-fresh ingredients, and inspired combinations. My go-to is the vegan powerhouse Vulcan Wrap while Carol is partial to the Hot Mom with almond pesto and two kinds of greens. While you’re waiting, wander over to the houseboat docks and take a stroll. One of my faves, which looks like a fairytale house plunked onto a cartoon boat, is visible if you just walk through the breezeway and cross the little street behind the store.

See what they did there with the name? Salsalito is my second pick in the New Town neighborhood, and with its casual vibe, colorful outdoor deck, and Baja-inspired tacos, it’s a fab place for a sunshiney lunch or an after-hike dinner. I can’t get enough of the tacos Salsalitos, soft white corn tortillas packed with shrimp, onions, and bell peppers sauteed in a garlic wine sauce. There’s plenty more here too, including hearty soups, big salads, enchiladas, loaded burritos, all-day chilaquiles, and oysters.

Unwind with water views and boutique sleeps.

For GOAT (Greatest Of All Time) views of the Golden Gate Bridge, book a stay at Cavallo Point, a five-ish minute drive from downtown Sausalito. Perched on a hill that slopes gently to the base of the bridge, this upscale lodge has a destination restaurant, a cozy bar (an ideal spot for a casual date night), and a next-level spa and healing arts center with a meditation pool, shamanic journeys, and reiki, along with more traditional spa treatments. The rooms are ultra-peaceful—period details mix with luxe linens and rich colors in the historic rooms, while the contemporary hillside rooms are beautifully sleek spaces with floor-to-ceiling windows, radiant floors, and fireplaces.

At this 31-room waterfront hotel, the only thing between you and views of the water, San Francisco, Angel Island, and Alactraz is floor-to-ceiling glass. Expect incredible views (and cool bird watching) during the day and sparkly romantic vistas at night. The decor here leans luxe but understated—private decks, cozy chairs, sleek bathrooms, and soft linens—your own little blissful dock of the bay.

The Gables Inn was Sausalito’s first hotel. After a life that included stints as a town hall, hospital, and church, the building has returned to its original glory as a cute-as-a-button inn set in a grove of Buckeye trees a few minutes’ walk from downtown. Choose from hotel rooms in the original building, or cottage rooms and one- and two-bedroom apartments with kitchens and living rooms. Not all rooms offer the same amenities (like bay views), so be picky when you’re browsing.

Rumors hint that this downtown Mission-Revival building was once a bordello and a speakeasy. And in the 1960s, artists and writers flocked here to stay and work during Sausalito’s creative heyday. These days, French-inspired details like wrought-iron bed frames, flouncy curtains, and floral bedspreads give the hotel a cool-again grandmillennial vibe. Its super central location is ideal if you want to spend most of your time enjoying downtown by foot instead of relying on a car.

For a more local-living vibe, head up the hill and stay in a cottage at Casa Madrona. The hotel is on the National Register of Historic Places, but a 2014 renovation seamlessly blended the hotel’s original charm with just the right amount of modern elegance—think crisp white linens, sea-blue accents, and big windows that let in natural light and gorgeous views. Downstairs, the award-winning restaurant Poggio makes it easy to have a nice meal without leaving the property. Bonus: California residents get 10% off room rates.