Weekend in Lewes, Delaware: pretty beaches, history, and seafood shacks

The last time The WeekEnder went to the Delaware Coast, we roamed around lots of charming little beach towns. But there was one place that we couldn’t stop thinking about: Lewes, a nearly 400-year-old spot with a historic downtown, great outdoor adventures, pretty beaches, and a buzzing food scene that has helped give this area its nickname—the Culinary Coast.

Gyanendra Gupta (aka “Chef GG”), the co-owner of Raas restaurant, had the same reaction when he visited. The chef—who had been working with five-star luxury hotels throughout India—came to Delaware to represent his native country at a food and wine festival. When Gupta discovered Lewes through a friend, it was love at first bite. “The charm of Lewes just took me,” he says. “I was surprised by the beauty and the pace and everything about it. So I decided to come back again the next year, which cemented my bond.”

In fact, Gupta fell so hard for Lewes that he quickly quit his job in India and moved here to open the area’s first (and only) pan-Asian Indian restaurant in the center of town. It was a hit. “I’m very fulfilled with what I’ve achieved and what I’ve done—and especially being around such wonderful people,” he says.

Another delicious highlight in Lewes is the Crooked Hammock Brewery, which has a backyard barbecue theme, along with play areas for kids, easy-drinking craft beers, and dishes like chili-lime shrimp over a street corn salad, a crowd favorite. Crooked Hammock’s co-owner Josh Grapski discovered the area when he was in culinary school. As a chef, he loved all the natural resources—the farms, the fresh seafood—but he was also captivated by the vibe. “What makes the Delaware Coast special is that it’s this withdrawal from regular life—you get down here and you feel like you’re in a different world,” says Grapski. “My wife and I are both from New England, so Lewes had a quaintness that attracted us. It’s very walkable and has a downtown set on a canal. Then you have this beautiful state park with big natural dunes and an Atlantic beach. Or there’s the bay side, which has calm beaches where kids can hang out. It has a little bit of everything.”

And if you’re into craft brews you’ll be excited to know that Lewes is home to the Dogfish Inn, a sweet little spot owned by the founders of the Dogfish Head brewing company. Why Lewes? “I love the small-town feel,” says Mariah Calagione, Dogfish Head’s co-founder and social-impact leader. Her family moved to Lewes when she was 16—and she still lives here. “It’s changed a lot over the past 40-plus years. It’s evolved from a working harbor town into a beautiful and bustling resort town with great restaurants and shops. I love that even in the middle of the summer, you can still find old Lewes by walking along the canal, over the drawbridge, or along the beach first thing in the morning.”

Above the fireplace in the lobby at the Dogfish Inn, there’s a sign that sets the tone for what lies ahead. It says, “Welcome to Lewes. Mother Nature, let’s do this.” So let’s do this.

Lewes has plenty of small hotels with loads of personality—from one of the country’s first beer-themed inns to historic B&Bs that are a flashback to another era.

Whether you’re a craft-beer lover, an adventure buff, or just an appreciator of good design, Dogfish Inn delivers. “It’s a converted motel that has created a cool ode to craft beer,” says Grapski. The rooms have a modern-vintage look inspired by old-school family vacations. There’s a nightly fire pit where you can bond with fellow beer lovers. Free retro bikes and e-bikes are available for guests. And the inn works as a great basecamp for all your explorations.

If your definition of the good life involves cocktails and tasty food at the ready, then the Hotel Rodney is your spot. It’s home to the Rose and Crown, a gastropub that Grapski calls “a hidden gem.” Plus, it’s smack in the center of town. “So you can walk right out the door and off you go,” says Grapski.

Gupta is a fan of this romantic adults-only property with a rooftop pool, luxe extras like Frette robes, and fireplaces in all the rooms.

Set in the town’s historic district, this Victorian B&B dates to the 1800s. Book a room in the oldest section (the main house) for the most charm. Tripadvisor reviewers rave about the fun (and free) perks like the French-style breakfast buffet with homemade quiches and evening happy hour.

Looking to sit and watch the boats go by? This lovely inn, right on the canal, gives you that chill-out space from its water-view rooms and balconies. “It has a very Nantucket feel to it,” says Grapski.

The Washington Post recently called Lewes the best beach town for food lovers. And we couldn’t agree more. Here are a few of our favorite stops.

Elevation 26 by Kaisy’s Delights – “It’s absolutely phenomenal for classic French breakfast dishes like omelets,” says Gupta.

The Station on Kings – This combo café/coffee shop/bakery/garden center checks off all the boxes. Don’t miss the deviled eggs.

Eggcellent – “A traditional breakfast spot that’s known for their French toast,” says Grapski. Tripadvisor reviewers also call out the crab Benedict.

Nectar – This homey café is known for its signature juices, healthy bites (don’t miss the Vedge, a pesto and vegetable sandwich on a ciabatta roll), and breakfast served all day (get the buttered pecan French toast). Order from the counter or grab a table in the dining room, which Grapski says has a “quaint farmhouse style.”

Olive & Oats – “They have an electric lunch menu with things like avocado toast and European-style salads,” says Grapski. “My daughter loves their Serrano ham and grilled cheese.”

Touch of Italy – Heading to the beach? Calagione picks up lunch to go from this downtown Italian spot. The fan favorite: eggplant parm hero.

Raas – At this fusion restaurant, the menu combines influences from India, China, the Caribbean, and more. Think duck breast korma, whole branzino with ginger orange sauce, and salmon coconut curry with jasmine rice and raw mango. Be sure to say “hi” to Chef GG, who loves to meet guests and share his advice on places to go in and around Lewes.

Agave – “A great little Mexican joint,” says Grapski. Menu highlights include the guacamole sampler, the super nachos, and the fish tacos—all perfectly paired with a pomegranate or ancho chili margarita.

Crooked Hammock Brewery – Grapski’s brewpub serves the kind of food you’d barbecue in your backyard—but better. There are five kinds of burgers, but we’re wild for the “backyard” version, cooked to perfection with just one flip. And as you might guess from the name, there are hammocks for lounging, games to play (round of cornhole, anyone?), and a fire pit for cool coastal nights.

Half Full – “This is a great gourmet pizza place with individual pies,” says Grapski. The flavors range from the expected (margherita, pepperoni) to the unique (crab and corn, smoked duck and fig).

Lewes Oyster House – “If I’m in the mood for seafood, this is where I go,” says Gupta. The dish to order? Smoked oysters, but a heads up—they sell out quickly.

Matt’s Fish House – Get ready for seafood decadence at this beachy spot: lobster mac and cheese, crab fries with an Old Bay fondue, or shrimp and grits with Calabrian chili jam.

Heirloom – Chef Megan Lee serves up seasonal menus that change regularly with dishes like pan-seared mahi mahi with toasted coconut or house-made burrata topped with baby tomatoes and sweet cherry jam. “It’s a really awesome farm-to-table place with a chef-driven concept,” says Grapski.

Kindle – Matt DiSabantino, the owner of Half Full, is the magic ingredient behind this upscale dinner spot with candlelit dining and splurge-worthy dishes. We’ve got our eye on the falling-off-the-bone braised lamb shank and chicken with a paprika-spiked honey glaze.

Bramble & Brine at the Buttery – You’ll find French-accented coastal cuisine (think: Parisian lobster gnocchi, seared dayboat scallops with a leek and shallot sauce) at this converted Victorian mansion.

The Pig and Publican – When Grapski wants to grab a cocktail, he heads to this local pub right across the bridge. There’s a long list of specialty martinis, but we’re partial to the Spicy Honey Sour with small batch bourbon, hot honey syrup, sour mix, and lemon.

Nassau Valley Vineyards – The first winery in Delaware is so much more than just a field of grapes and a spot to sip them. Besides a tasting room for sampling the award-winning bottles, there’s also a wine museum, an art gallery, and a farmer’s market.

King’s Homemade Ice Cream – Don’t let the line deter you—it’s worth the wait for the waffle cones and flavors like peach yogurt, Dutch apple, and salted caramel.

Hopkins Farm Creamery – The largest dairy farm in Delaware is a fourth-generation family-run business that depends on over 1,000 cows to make its farm-fresh ice creams.

Use those tasty Lewes meals to fuel any number of outdoor activities. Or maybe you just want to lounge on the beach. We won’t judge.

Lewes Beach – Families flock to this bayside beach, thanks to its calm waters and dolphin sightings.

Cape Henlopen State Park – “This is the jewel of Delaware’s state parks,” says Grapski. Besides endless walking and biking trails, the oceanfront park has a seaside nature center and World War II relics—thanks to its past as a strategic fort and stronghold protecting the mouth of the Delaware River.

Quest Kayak Guided Tours – One adventure Grapski says is not to be missed—a kayak expedition with this local outfitter. “They do a couple different tours like a sunset one and a dolphin tour,” he says. You can also rent stand-up paddleboards, floating mats, and more.

Seagreen Bicycle – If you’re not staying at the Dogfish Inn (with its free bikes), this is the place to get a set of wheels and explore.

Georgetown Lewes Trail – This atmospheric 17-mile trail along the former Delaware Coast Line Railroad is popular with bicyclists, joggers, and walkers looking for an easy and flat stroll.

The history runs deep in Lewes, which is known as “the first town in the first state.” Gupta suggests heading to First Street. “Just take a stroll and you’ll see the beautiful houses down by the canal,” he says. “At the end is the point where the first immigrants landed in the 1600s.” Here are a few more ways to take in the past—plus some modern-day culture, too.

Lewes Historical Society – Learn more about this town on a walking tour—from ghost stories to Revolutionary War tales—run by the local historical society.

Lewes History Museum – Besides the tours (see above), the historical society has a museum that gives a peek into 1,000 years of Lewes history, going back to the Indigenous people who originally inhabited this land. Tripadvisor reviewers say the children’s area alone is worth the visit.

Zwaanendael Museum – Geek out on military and maritime history at this free museum named after Delaware’s first European settlement.

Lightship Overfalls – Calling all lighthouse lovers. Back in the day, lightships—think, a mobile lighthouse—used to warn ships of dangerous reefs. This well-preserved lightship is fun for a quick tour.

Rocking the Docks – At this waterfront summer music series, you can cool off with sea breezes, live tunes (from blues to rock), killer sunsets, and great eats from the local food trucks.

Whether you’re in the market for fresh produce, retro candy, or a colorful kaftan, Lewes has it all.

Historic Lewes Farmers Market – There’s a bounty of local seafood and produce at this farmers market held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Gupta recommends checking out the mushroom vendors.

Kid’s Ketch – Grapski is a dad, so he knows his way around a toy store and vouches for this spot as a surefire hit with the kiddos.

Edie Bees Confection Shop – If you’ve got a sweet tooth, this colorful vintage-style candy store is dangerously good. We’re still dreaming about the toffee pretzels.

Aquamarine in Between – Grapski says that when he’s looking for a gift for his wife, this boutique with its beachy kaftans and colorful jewelry is his go-to spot.

The Vintage Underground – If you’ve been following The WeekEnder, you know that we can’t resist a great vintage store. This spot has everything from vinyl LPs to Jackie O-style shifts to an impressive denim selection.