Humor me, and just try this for a second. Close your eyes; now, picture the holidays in Edinburgh. I bet it looks something like this: the medieval Old Town draped in garlands and twinkling lights, magical Christmas markets lining the Royal Mile, festive storefronts and boutiques along Princes Street. Don’t worry, it’s not just a figment of your imagination—Scotland’s capital is all that and more, IRL. Come winter, its iconic pubs, historic castles, and glam hotels are decked out in Christmas cheer. But, with an endless amount of seasonal activities and events, it can be hard to know where to start. So, I’ve created a guide packed with tips and tricks to help you plan your holiday trip.
Explore the Christmas markets
From mid-November to the beginning of January, Christmas markets are set up all over Edinburgh. The traditional East Princes Street Gardens Christmas Market, in the historic city center, features 80 stalls full of local treats, handmade gifts, and mulled wines, as well as staggering views of Edinburgh Castle and Scott monument. If you’re up for a thrill, this is also the spot for carnival rides, including Scotland’s largest Ferris wheel!
Over on George Street West and Castle Street, you’ll find the Christmas ice rink with views of New Town. If you’re like me and not steady even with two feet firmly planted on the ground (no judgment), you can leave the skating to your companions and peruse the food stalls or finish up some last-minute holiday shopping.
For more family-friendly fun, West Princes Street Gardens is just the ticket. The funfair has food and beverage stalls, fairground rides, festive lights, and live events from choirs to ceilidhs — traditional gatherings with Scottish folk music, dancing, and storytelling.
To cap off your day, usher your wee ones off to the St. Andrew Square’s Winter Garden, where Santa will be stationed this year!
See all the holiday lights
Since the Iron Age, Edinburgh Castle has stood guard over the capital from its seat atop Castle Rock. The medieval stronghold has always been one of the most important buildings in Scotland, serving as a royal residence, military barracks, and garrison. For the last five years, it’s added another feather to its cap as The Castle of Light—Scotland’s largest projection show. The experience, which kicks off in November, includes immersive displays, interactive installations, and music, with the city’s storied history brought to life right on the castle walls.
Travelers say: “Visited the Castle of Light during December. It is such a magical experience if you can do it. Adults and children alike!” —@JenJen
Christmas at the Botanic, aka The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, may have debuted in 2017, but it has quickly become a mainstay on the city’s seasonal calendar. Running November 21 through December 30, the installation has fields of color-changing lights, flickering candles, and illuminated chandeliers, all synchronized to holiday music.
Tip: When you buy tickets, you’ll notice two entrance choices—West Gate on Arboretum Place or the East Gate on Inverleith Row. If you’re traveling by car or taxi, you’ll want the former, if by bus, the latter. The whole experience takes roughly 90 minutes to walk through.
Travelers say: “Loved our visit to Christmas at the Botanics. Everything was well organized and not too crowded. The lights are stunning and the music choices fit really well with the displays. We took our time, stopping for lots of photos and to roast some marshmallows. It was a really enjoyable evening. Got some cute Christmas ornaments from the gift shop afterward too.” —@Jackie A
Like Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City or Harrods in London, The Dome on George Street is a popular venue for over-the-top holiday decor. From October 28 to January 5, the building’s Corinthian columns sparkle with garland and tinsel—so don’t miss this photo opp.
Travelers say: “This was my first visit to The Dome and it really was a wonderful experience. From the moment you see the outside covered in lights, to the stunning entrance hall, and the central Christmas tree, you are completely immersed in Christmas. The afternoon tea was very nice but the wow factor comes from the surroundings. Highly recommended for all ages.” —@Tracey G
Enjoy an afternoon tea fit for royalty
Look for the sky-high clock tower looming over Princes Street, and you’ll know you’ve found The Balmoral. A beloved landmark on Edinburgh’s hilly landscape, the hotel hosts one of the best afternoon teas at its Palm Court. The atmosphere here is old-school elegance: a soaring glass dome ceiling, Venetian chandelier, exotic palms, Calton Hill-themed wallpaper, and a harpist concerto. Sip some loose-leaf tea (or vintage Champagne, if you’re really getting in the holiday spirit) and nibble on delicate finger sandwiches, petit fours, and fresh-baked scones with clotted cream and jam—yum!
Colonnades at The Signet Library is another great option for afternoon tea. Adjacent to St. Giles’ Cathedral, the genteel Georgian building features a tea room with its own ornate columns and soaring ceiling. Unlimited tea and coffee are coupled with decadent sweets, homemade bread, and savory bites. Plus, the kitchen can even cater to vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free guests (just give them 48 hours’ notice).
Travelers say: “The Signet Library is a stunning building in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Part of the Supreme Court building, it feels like a privilege to be there. All that adds to the sense of pleasure when the afternoon tea arrives. You have a wide choice of teas (coffee is available) to accompany the two courses of delightful pieces—the first course is mainly savory and the second course is sweeter. It was all delicious. This must be one of the best and most unique experiences you can have on the Royal Mile.” —@Alex Traveller
Last but certainly not least, I recommend The Lounge at The Caledonian. Housed in an original 1800s train station, this beautiful dining room serves a lush spread of scones, Battenberg cakes, finger sandwiches, and more.
Tip: Make a reservation for afternoon tea on Saturday or Sunday, when a harpist and pianist often play.
Tuck into a traditional Christmas feast
For a lively holiday dinner—on Christmas day or in the lead-up—get yourself to Ghillie Dhu in the West End. Inside a former church with arched ceilings and candle-lit chandeliers, this festive spot has a main auditorium, a lively bar for tipples and dancing, and snugs (small sitting rooms) for semi-private parties. The two- or three-course meal is the perfect size and focuses on Scottish favorites such as haggis bonbons, sage-roasted turkey breast, marbled game terrine, and glazed banana toffee pudding—dishes that’ll have you feeling so warm and cozy, you may not need to bundle up on your way out the door.
Want to splurge on something over-the-top? The five-star Prestonfield House can’t be beat. This 17th-century baroque-style mansion is surrounded by 20 acres of gardens and parkland that make it feel like a country estate—when it’s actually smack dab in the center of the city. To set the scene: board games, books, roaring log fires, gilded antiques, and ancestral portraits decorate the public rooms, and the Christmas day menu—served by smartly kilted staff—includes indulgent options like Roscoff onion soup with gruyere dumplings, Agen prune stuffing, goose fat roasters, and Prestonfield Christmas pudding with apricot brandy sauce and mascarpone ice cream. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate.
Travelers say: “What a place. Small, personal, friendly, opulent, quiet, well appointed, and very, very tasteful. Standards are high at Prestonfield, from the unassuming kilted welcome at the door to the world-class cuisine in the restaurant (Rhubarb). This was a Christmas present from my wife. She was concerned in case I didn’t like it as I spend a lot of time in hotels, but not like this one. Top marks. Don’t hesitate to stay here if you can. An oasis of calm in the Scottish capital.” —@Rederic007
Warm up with a wee whisky tasting
What is a trip to Edinburgh without a whisky tasting, right? At the top of the Royal Mile, The Scotch Whisky Experience offers a sensorial introduction to regional drams. There are a handful of tours to choose from, including one that pairs single malt whiskies with canapés, so you can keep your wits about you.
Catty-corner across Princes Street Garden is Johnnie Walker Princes Street. While you can spend a pretty penny to craft your own customized Blue Label bottle, the signature tour is much more affordable and just as noteworthy. It features interactive projections, live performances, and three cocktails curated to your preferred flavor profile.
Farther south, in the shadow of the Salisbury Crags (the glaciated remains of a volcanic sill) is Holyrood Distillery, the city’s only single malt whisky producer. Whether you have a tight itinerary to stick to or are willing to spend hours sipping flights, the intimate tours will teach you a thing or two about Edinburgh’s brewing and distilling history. And if you’re not a whisky person, no worries, the gin is pretty killer as well.
Travelers say: “I have no words to describe how wonderful this experience was. So entertaining and interesting. I would highly recommend visiting it and while you are at it, do yourself a favor and book a table at 1820 rooftop bar. The views are breathtaking!” —@Irina V
Stick around for Hogmanay
If you’re staying for a few days after Christmas (trust me, you should), Hogmanay—aka the New Year’s Eve celebration—is, quite literally, unavoidable. It is the most important holiday in Scotland, and one that dates back to the days of the Vikings and winter solstice. Revelers from all over the world come to join in the raucous three-day festival.
Keep an eye on the official site for dates and tickets to the Hogmanay Street Party, live concert in West Princes Street Gardens, and more events. And, above all else, be prepared to head outdoors and sing your heart out to Auld Lang Syne—along with a chorus of 40,000+ other merrymakers—to ring in the New Year.
